Hello Springtime!

Poached Rhubarb

200g rhubarb (about 2 stalks)
juice and zest of half an orange
1/2 vanilla pod, seeds removed (or 1/2 tsp of vanilla extract)
25g soft brown sugar
25g caster sugar

Heat the oven to 300F/150c/Gas 2.

Cut the rhubarb into 1 inch/2.5cm pieces and lay in a thick ovenproof dish, make sure you choose a dish that will tightly pack the rhubarb in a single layer.

Sprinkle both sugars over the rhubarb.  Mix the orange zest, orange juice and either vanilla seeds or vanilla extract.  Pour over the sugared rhubarb, adding the leftover vanilla pod if used.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 20-25 minutes until soft to touch - remember that it will cook further when cooling.  Turn the rhubarb and leave to cool.  Will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.


Will go perfectly with rice pudding, ice cream, shortbread and cream, pancakes... but this morning it goes perfectly with granola and greek yogurt.

The Ultimate Spaghetti Bolognese

For someone that handed round homemade chutney for presents I was utterly spoilt this Christmas.  Along with beautiful 'Ruby' the sewing machine from Henny and Dad; a whole set of Jamie Oliver's blue fluted crockery from Angie, Ronnie and Clare; my dream orange Le Crueset from Bo (which made me cry); a years subscription to Jamie mag from Boy Wonder,  my dearest friend Fraser treated me with a brand spanking shiny new Jamie Oliver pasta machine.  I am currently Jamie Oliver'd out my nut. 

Fraser's presents from me consisted of a 'Pump n' Go' Yankee Candle for his car (which in my defence is funny and he loved it being a full on Yankee Candle fanatic) and the age old go-to present for any male in your life - the Top Gear calender.  Guilt is clutching at my soul. 

I have owned a pasta machine before and around 4 years ago experimented with ravioli fillings for days. Where the fillings were delish unfortunately the pasta itself was like thick cardboard, but I guess thats what you get for buying a pasta machine for £5.99 from Argos.  Since then it has done nothing but sit on the graveyard shelf along with the steamer and the emergency crockery.  For anyone that its acquainted with pasta machines you will know that after the dough is made it must be passed through the rollers that are set at different widths.  The pasta begins on 7 (the widest setting on my machines) and rolled through each stage until it gets to 1 (the narrowest).  My old pasta machine's number 1 setting was as thick as my number 7 on my brand spanking new one, hence the cardboard pasta. 

Making fresh pasta it definitely a social activity and to celebrate the unveiling a party had to be held.  Slow cooked Bolognese made in my Le Crueset was promised in exchange for garlic bread, vino and helping hands.  I might have omitted the do-it-yourself part.  Before everyone arrived the Bolognese (just like mama used to make, or actually just me) was put together, set simmering on the hob and Head Chef Bo worked on the dough.

Fresh Pasta Dough

Based on Jamie Oliver's recipe. Obviously.

Serves 6


600g/ 1lb Tipo '00' flour (plus extra for dusting)
6 eggs

Pile the flour on to a clean, large, work surface.  If you want to be a little tidier you can use a board or a bowl instead.  Make a well in the centre that will be large enough to fit in all the eggs.  Crack all the eggs into the well and lightly beat them with a fork.*  Incorporate the flour into the egg mixture with the tips of your fingers, a little at a time, until everything is combined.  Work the dough together so it comes together in a ball.

Now the dough needs to be kneeded and given a bit of love to stretch the gluten.  We highly recommend listening to random jazz as it seems to be perfect kneeding music and really gives you the strength to work that dough.  When it turns from rough and floury to smooth and silky (and can be stretched easily without breaking) your pasta dough is ready.  Cover the whole ball tightly with clingfilm and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes.

*At this stage I was recruited to be Dam Woman, making sure that no pesky eggs escaped their doom.  It is handy to have a Commis and I told you that pasta making was social!

Cutting the dough

Now I'm not saying that you need 5 people to make pasta but the majority of us were fresh pasta rookies so more hands etc etc.  Or was it too many cooks?  I'll let you be the judge of that.

We used Jamie's trusty method which you can find here and it worked a treat,  the first time was a little sketchy but by the last piece we were like a troop of Italian mamas! Our top tips would be to make sure that you have the worktop space, to make sure that you have a bag of Tipo '00' flour at hand and to not be afraid to cut the dough if it gets too long.  All agreed that the pasta was a little too thin for fettuccine and it needed to be a bit more robust to cope with the hearty-ness of our bolognese.  Perfect for ravioli though, so stay tuned!





Starring...

Bo - Feeder, Catcher and Handle Cranker

Gillian - Machine Stabiliser and Bo's Right-Hand Girl

Emma - 2nd Catcher, Official Photographer and Question Asker

Stevie - Jamie Oliver Book Reader and Tagliatelle Untangler

Ailsa - Pasta Machine Instruction Reader and Tagliatelle Store Manager

Set: The Smallest Kitchen in the World

Gillian and Bo hard at work

My skills were put to good use



Stevie looking after the precious fettuccine

Yum!

Bolognese

Serves 6

1 medium onion, finely diced

1 medium carrot, finely diced

2 sticks of celery, finely diced

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 kg good quality beef mince

1 heaped tbsp tomato puree

1 small glass red wine

1 tsp dried chilli

jar of pasata

250ml of chicken or beef stock

pinch of sugar

1 tbsp of milk

salt and pepper

Put a large, thick bottomed pan on the a medium setting and sweat the onion, carrot, celery and garlic for 5-10 minutes until translucent.  Add the chilli, turn up the heat and add the beef.  Cook in batches if you have a small pan so the meat doesn't go grey but instead browns nicely.  Use a wooden spoon to break up the beef and once cooked pour in the wine and cook until reduced by half.  Turn the heat down, stir in the tomato puree, pasata and stock.

Place a bay leaf in the pot, place the lid on and turn the heat down to low.  Cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Lift the lid, add the sugar, milk (to cut the acidity of the tomatoes - a good but weird tip!) and season to taste.

Replace the lid and cook for a further 45 minutes.

How about them apples?

I have been baking more and more lately - mainly because my attempts are no longer total disasters.  I know I bang on about purchases changing my life a fair bit but, after buying a oven thermometer, I discovered that my oven had been running 25c hotter than the thermostat.  Now, like magic (or just actual science), perfectly formed and very delicious cakes.  Seriously getting very grand illusions of opening a bakery, even though my cake successes are not even in double figures.  I like to dream big.

As previously noted life has been rather hectic recently and time at home has been limited.  Baking slows everything down, gives you space to think and to concentrate on the simple things.  Like creaming the butter and sugar to pale softness and sieving the flour until it falls like snow.  And then there is there is the fruits of your labour...
 

Spiced Apple Muffins

These muffins are a celebration of the British apple.  Shopping last week I was slightly shocked to see that 90% of the apples on sale were from France or Spain.  Ironic considering the glut we have in this country at this time of year.  If you make this recipe (I hope you do because it is lovely) and don't use British apples I may no longer be your friend.


The apples pack in the moisture and the result is fragrant, delicately spiced and very very moreish.  Great for breakfast or with a cup of tea on a stormy Autumn afternoon.

100g (4oz) light brown muscavado sugar
60g (2oz) soft unsalted butter
225ml (8 fl oz) semi-skimmed milk
255g (9oz) plain flour
3 tsp of baking powder
sultanas, a small handful
walnuts, a small handful
apples, quartered and cored
1/2 tsp of ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp of ground allspice
pinch of salt

Sieve the flour, salt and baking power into a large bowl.  In a second large bowl cream the softened butter and sugar, by hand or by electric mixer - the important thing is that it pales to a light toffee colour.  Fold in the flour mixture into the butter mixture alternatively with the milk until smooth.

Now you have the basic muffin batter you can add the flavour.  Grate in the apples, skin and all, throw in the sultanas, walnuts and all the spices.  Fold together until combined.

Spoon into muffin cases set in a muffin tray and bake for 20 - 25 minutes.  Easy!

I also want to show off my beautiful new crockery that Bo and Angie surprise me with; how lucky am I!  The range is called Blue Fluted by Jamie Oliver and is pretty extensive so that's my Christmases and birthday's sorted for a while.  I love the pretty vintage look and am seriously coveting the oval platters.  Its so lovely having proper grown up crockery and horrible leftovers from our student days. 

Will work for soup

I've been working rather a lot lately, its not made me very fun to be around.  Unless I'm in a slightly hysterical over-tired phase, then my jokes are excellent.  The down side to all this is that I'm living off cereal and tea, not much chance to tingle my taste buds and report back to you.  The upside to my heavy work schedule is that I've been making a hell of a lot of soup.  Now the temperature has plummeted (apparently its going to snow next Tuesday according to Mrs C from number 25) were are getting through 3 huge pots everyday.  When lunch service has been hectic there is something quite calming about pottering around the kitchen concocting delicious soups.

The Soup Dragon

This soup I made today and has a special place in my heart.  And my tummy. 

Roast Butternut Squash Soup

This recipe is adapted from both Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and my darling Sous Chef Nayana (who told me about the parmesan secret).  Hugh F-W notes that this soup could be made from roast chicken leftovers (stock, roasted onions and squash).  A great idea and carbon foot friendly too.

I've been mucking about with butternut squash soup for years, adding chilli for a spicy kick, dropping in cumin for earthy flavours - even melting through coconut milk for that taste of Asia.  This soup is different because it really lets the vegetable live up to its name - buttery and nutty with a savory kick from the parmesan.  Stripped back and pared down, this soup makes you happy.

2 medium to large butternut squash

2 white onions

5 cloves of garlic

2 sticks of celery - roughly chopped (optional)

1 large potato, peeled
chicken stock
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dried thyme
double cream
small knob of butter
1 tbsp of grated parmesan
fresh nutmeg (optional)
salt and pepper


Preheat the oven to 180c/350F/gas 4.

Cut the squashes in half, scoop out the seeds and cut each half into four or five large chunks.  Peel and quarter the onions leaving the roots intact to they hold together while roasting. Place everything into a large roasting tray adding the garlic whole (and not peeled) so they are like soft garliky caramel.  Drizzle olive oil over the whole tray and season with salt, pepper and the dried herbs.  Place in the middle of the oven and roast for around 45 minutes until the squash and onions are soft and golden.  Take out the oven and once cool enough squeeze the garlic out of their papery skins.


Put a large pot on the stove and set on a medium heat, add the butter and when melted add the celery.  Tip the whole roasting tray into the pot and mix around with celery and butter.  Chop the potato into 6 and add to the pot along with enough chicken stock to cover the vegetables.  Simmer on a medium heat with the lid on for half and hour.  Check that the potatoes are cooked through and add a splash of double cream.  Take off the heat and blend until really smooth, take your time - this soup has to be silky.  Sprinkle in the parmesan, blend some more and taste before seasoning.  Nutmeg is delicious with squash so a modest grating is a lovely addition.

Now back to work...

Of mists and mellow fruitfulness

The only season that, last year, made me feel glad to be home after spending 2 weeks lying on Bondi Beach. The only season that allows me to dress up as a pirate, make lots of pumpkin soup and wake up happy every morning. The only season that is never a disappointment because it’s supposed to rain every day.

Autumn – I adore you.

October is the king of months for many reasons but mostly for the food. It seems that all my favorites are in season at this time of year. From mushrooms to beetroot to squash to apples; you can get a damn fine meal in October. I'm also still getting late season tomatoes coming through in my balcony boxes, 1-0 Mr Blackbird! With the nights drawing in comfort food is on the menu.

I’m never going to be a no carb, light bite kind of girl – I like bowls of food that warm your cockles, whatever cockles may be. For comfort bowl food you can’t go far wrong with gnocchi, and I’ve eaten a lot of gnocchi in my time. The first taste was a stolen forkful from my aunt Dianne’s plate whilst eating out in Sydney over a decade ago. Nestled in a simple Neapolitan sauce it was worth the thievery. That trip was a lot of first tastes but the pillowy softness of that rustled potato dumpling was something that I knew I couldn’t (and wouldn’t) live without.

Despite eating a lot of gnocchi, I have never actually made it myself – something to do with not owning a potato ricer. A couple of weeks ago I made that purchase and it changed my life. Not actually, but it’s the simple things. So I read up on my favourite little dumplings, the Romans like to use semolina flour whereas the Tuscans favour ricotta, there is pumpkin gnocchi (Autumnal heaven!), basil gnocchi; the list is endless and delicious. For something relatively simple gnocchi sure does come in a lot of guises. I have a potato ricer and I like potatoes so the classic potato gnocchi it was.

Potato Gnocchi with Chestnut Mushrooms,

Goats Cheese and Pinenuts

A celebration of Autumnal ingredients this dish is perfect for a cozy supper.  You can bake the potatoes in advance to cut down the prep time.  I tried to track down some local, wild mushrooms for this dish but unfortunately our brilliant local grocer has had to close its doors.  Sad times but chestnut are a good substitute.

Serves 2


For the gnocchi:
4 medium potatoes
2 tbsp of 00 flour
1 egg
fresh nutmeg
salt and pepper


For the sauce:
8 large chestnut mushrooms
2 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped
a selection of fresh herbs - I used thyme, purple sage and parsley
splash of white wine
splash of chicken stock
small knob of butter
soft goats cheese
small handful of pinenuts

Turn the oven on to 220c/425F/gas 7.  Rub the potatoes with olive oil, score the tops and bake in the oven for about an hour until the potatoes are fluffy on the inside and crispy on the outside.  Allow to cool a little and then, while they are still warm, cut in half and scoop out the insides into a ricer.  'Rice' (is that a word?!) the potatoes into a large mixing bowl until lovely and smooth.  Add generous pinch of salt, grind in some black pepper and grate in a little fresh nutmeg.  Remember with nutmeg a little goes a long way.  Whisk the egg and add into the potato mixture.   Little by little add the flour, only using enough to bind the mixture.  The less flour used, the lighter your gnocchi will be so only use as much as you need to make the dough easy to handle.  Split the dough three ways and roll each piece into a long sausage shape.  Cut the sausages into inch long pieces, place on a floured plate and leave to set in the fridge for 10 to 20 minutes.

Put a saucepan of salted water on to boil.  Get a large frying on the heat and toss in the pinenuts.  Toast them for half a minute and put to the side.  In the same pan add a good glug of olive oil, add the mushrooms to the frying pan and toss until golden brown.  Add in the butter, garlic, seasoning and any hardy herbs (thyme, sage etc).  When the garlic has cooked, splash in the wine, add the stock and cook for another 5 minutes on a medium heat.  While the sauce is cooking take the gnocchi from the fridge and cook in the salted water until they rise to the surface.  It should only take a couple of minutes.  Remove, gently, with a slotted spoon and add to the sauce.  Sprinkle roughly chopped fresh parsley and the toasted pine nuts into the pan, shake everything together and spoon into pasta bowls.  Crumble a little soft goats cheese over the top and serve.

Note: I have read that gnocchi can be made without using a potato ricer although it is very important to get the mash as smooth as possible.  I picked up my ricer for under a tenner at Tescos.

The herbs I used in this recipe were from our brand-spanking-new community herb garden that I stumbled upon while picking up the papers last week.  Perfect timing as my own herb pots and boxes are past their best now.  They seem to be very well looked after (particularly the purple sage which is bursting with health) and I hope it is treasured by everyone.  A lovely idea for gardenless people like myself.







This post has been entered into the 'In The Bag' food blogging event where 3 seasonal ingredients are brought together to make something delicious and then blogged about.  This month it was mushrooms, nuts and herbs.  To find out more about 'In The Bag' check out Julia's blog A Slice Of Cherry Pie. 

Julia Parsons is the founder of the UK Food Bloggers Association which is a brilliant way to get to know other food bloggers as well as an invaluable source of help and support. 

Heat without the Meat

The spice of chilli is the one thing to polarise the public. You may pretend it doesn't exist but there are definitely chilli people and non-chilli people. With Come Dine With Me contestants reaching for the 5 score-cards because 'the curry was far too hot, not what I am used to' to another eating Birds Eyes until tears are pouring down their flaming cheeks, you must admit the relationship with chilli differs from person to person. I am in the pro-chilli camp for sure. Actually, you might even call it an addiction.

But the big question is can you learn to love chilli? Can the ability to handle spice evolve with the amount you eat? Who knows? Recently I ate some noodles with four Birds Eyes, seeds and all, and could only detect a smidgen of heat. Panicking that I had become immune I shoved half a jar of dried chilli into the next nights pasta and nearly blew my face off. We live and learn. Actually we don't as I have a feeling that fresh chillies of late have been very temperamental in their heat. I am now more reliant on dried because at least I know where I am at with them, unless I'm panicking that I have suddenly lost my chilli taste buds. Probably burnt them off.

Anyway the reason that I am rabbiting on about chillies is that I have recently encountered Meat Free Mondays. I know its being going on for ages and that I'm totally behind the times but the Observer Food Monthly (all hail OFM!) was edited by the McCartney's in July and they banged on about it. A lot. And do you know what? It actually makes quite a bit of sense. Basically the world is doomed but we can make it last longer by combating global warming. According to the UK's Food Climate Research Network livestock is accountable for 20-30% of global green house gas emissions, a figure set to rise as more and more meat is produced to cope with demand. From farm to fork meat takes a lot of energy to produce.

Meat Free Mondays doesn't mean that we have to completely change our eating habits, it just means we don't eat (or buy) meat for one day a week. It also has a lot of benefits for us too, meat is expensive so save the pennies, embrace the world of vegetables because they are delicious and learn to be a bit more creative in the kitchen. You might even being doing it without noticing anyway, I was. You can sign up to Meat Free Mondays here and they have a few more facts, recipes, celebrity testimonials - if you like that sort of thing. Also it doesn't need to be a Monday, good for alliteration but not so good for the Sunday roast leftovers. I went for Thursdays because the man's away so mince is off the menu.

So back to chillies, (feel like this is a bit of a Billy Connally story that never really reaches a point), Asian food is meat-free heaven and the best Asian food is laced with fiery heat. Strong fragrant flavours, filling but healthy, and quick and easy to make. When I'm feeling a bit sluggish and bored the only thing to perk me up is spicy noodles or a decent homemade curry. Something that gives you a shake as well as a hug.

My Noodles

I make this dish at least once a week, I can crave it all day.  Most of the ingredients are in my store cupboard and the recipe is never set in stone so whatever is in the fridge will do. There is something about all the chopping that is so relaxing and the finished dish is exciting as well as comforting.  You eat it out of a bowl, you can't get more comforting than that.  Oh and please eat it with chop sticks - just not the same with a fork.

selection of vegetables, stir-fry types like brocoli, peppers, courgette, mushrooms

coconut milk, half a can

1 large chilli

1 clove of garlic

fresh root ginger, thumb-sized piece

fresh coriander

stock (vegetable on Meat Free days but chicken normally)

noodles (your choice but I have a preference of flat egg noodles)

1 teaspoon of Green Curry paste

splash of Fish Sauce

Small handful of peanuts

Chop all your vegetables into similar sized pieces.  Mince the garlic and ginger and slice the chillies - deseed if you like.  Put a pan of boiling water on for your noodles and set a large wok on the heat.  To the wok add the stock until it reaches a couple of inches, basically you want the stock to cover all your vegetables.  Add the ginger, garlic, curry paste and fish sauce into the stock.  I refrain from adding the chillies at this point because they tend to lose their heat if cooked too much - if you would like it milder add them now. 

Put the vegetables into the stock, the ones that take the longest to cook first and so on.  Remember that soggy vegetables are horrible so please only cook them for the minimum amount of time.  At the same time put your noodles on to cook.  Once the vegetables are nearly cooked add the coconut milk and chillies.  As soon as the noodles are ready, drain and add them to the wok.  Chop the coriander and add this too.

Now this is where I differ from the regular noodle broth.  I hate that broth sauce barely coats the vegetables and noodles so at this point I get a slotted spoon I remove everything apart from the sauce and place it in the bowl I will be eating from.  I then return the wok to the heat and reduce the fragrant sauce right down so it is thick enough to cling to the vegetables.  Once its ready (it only takes a minute or two) pour the sauce over everything else.  Chop up some peanuts, sprinkle over the top and Bob's your uncle!

Oh and I really, really must give you the recipe for a delicious Thai dipping sauce that is exactly like the one we have in our favourite Thai restaurant (The Wilawan which has been lovingly nicknamed The Willy). Great with tempura or anything similarly crispy and hot.  I made it recently when my mum, my brother and his girlfriend were over, served it with Bill Granger's Prawn Cakes - ridiculously yummy.

Cucumber Dipping Sauce

1 small cucumber, finely chopped
1 1/2 tbsp of finely chopped red onion
1 small red chilli, seeded and finely chopped
85ml white vinegar
65g caster sugar
2 garlic cloves
2-3 slices of fresh ginger
splash of fish sauce
peanuts and fresh coriander for the topping


Place the cucumber, red onion and chilli in a small bowl. In a small saucepan, place everything else and simmer it all for 2-3 minutes until the liquid has become thicker. Remove from the heat and cool.

Once cool strain into the small bowl over the cucumber etc. Top with chopped peanuts and fresh coriander if desired.

Listen with Your Tummy

This is firstly an apology of being rather absent of late. Work coupled with a beer/laptop accident (which still means that I need to copy and paste my d's and q's in) has meant that I have been neglecting you all. I am now on a wee holiday, getting to do lovely things like eat and talk about eating.

Today I want to talk about listening about eating; a new concept to those who are used to devouring celebrity chefs on television, and one that reverts us to our past radio-listening selves. I love the radio, my kitchen digital radio is one of my most treasured possessions. I love the randomness of it all, you can be delighted (or annoyed, or tickled) by the most unexpected topics of conversation. But most of all I love the element of belonging to a group of people, both heard and unheard - the talkers and the listeners. Tune in to a show long enough and they become your extended friends and family, people to learn and laugh with.

I have recently joined the modern world and got myself a new fancy phone, this phone is now my best friend. Fact. Its ok, Bo has one too so he's not lonely. My lovely new phone was a little on the pricey side so anything that I can download for free is fair game. This is how I joined the new revolution of podcasts; a revolution that I am happy to wave a flag for because they are ace. Miniature radio shows without the interruption of rubbish songs and depressing news stories, shows that you can store and save up for when there is no-one to interrupt. Perfect. I also love how you can use them as a catch up service - miss your favorite radio show, no worries just download the podcast and listen at your leisure.

And what better to listen to than programs about food...

Spilled Milk

Those who know me know that Molly Wizenburg is a bit of a hero. Her Orangette blog has greatly influenced my writing and blogging style so when I stumbled across her food podcasts I knew I had struck gold. Molly teams up with her friend, and fellow food writer, Matthew Amster-Burton who is equally hilarious and knowledgeable about the wonderful world of gastronomy.

Spilled Milk is recorded every 2 weeks, they pick a subject to talk about (Rhubarb for example) and the shows tag line is 'The show where we make something delicious and you can't have any'. The podcast is recorded in their home city of Seattle so it is a brilliant insight into American eating trends, habits and ingredients. It does mean that some shows can leave you bemused about certain topics - the show on their love of 'Milkshakes' is hilarious but what in God's name is a Chocolate Malt? But be warned Spilled Milk can also make you want to move to Seattle.

My favorite thing to do with Spilled Milk is to listen to it when I am food shopping, everyone around must think I mad chuckling away to myself while picking out tomatoes. iTunes are not being overly sensitive when they labelled the Pea episode 'explicit' but its good natured (brilliantly immature) humour. And the best thing - its all free baby! So what are you waiting for...

BBC 4 Food Program

This is the daddy of all food podcasts, obviously because it is produced by the BBC it is one class act. They don't skimp on this show - if the subject is Kebabs they travel to Istanbul and Bursa to explore the ancient techniques used in authentic Turkish Doners. They mix interviews with producers, historians and the public along with great presenters. The subjects themselves are incredibly varied too, from Chips to Amateur Food Photography, all of which are handled total professionalism by Sheila Dillion and her team. They are also brilliant at covering British food events, the latest show recorded at WOMAD festival takes you right there. Basically this award winning and intelligent radio show (turned podcast) is not one to be missed.

This is the podcast that I treat myself with, the one that I leave until last because I know that even though I might not love the subject matter (pork scratchings anyone?) I will love listening to every single minute because I always learn something. I might even listen to it twice so it sinks in.

So do you agree with my choices and are there any good food podcasts that I am missing out on? Please let me know, I'm hungry for more...