Compromise

Sometimes you get to do what you want, be selfish and act on whims. Sometimes you have to go along with anothers plans to make them happy or because you owe them one. And then there is compromise.

For two people that are so similar (love a charity shop bargain, hated Hot Tub Time Machine) Bo and I can be very different too. The night we met I asked him the question on which I base everything, what would you have as your last meal on earth? This question has be debated within our family for years, mine changes with my mood and consists of pre-dinner snacks, starter, main and desserts with drinks to match each course. Bo's answer; well done steak with Colman's pepper sauce and chips. If he wasn't so handsome...

Our meals at home are usually separate (odd working hours don't help) although we try to eat together as much as possible. With two people with such contrasting views on what constitutes and decent meal this can be tricky. We have about five combo meals that can be split into our personal tastes; curry where he can have the meat and sauce and I can have the sauce and veggies etc. But I get bored. Cooking the same thing week in, week out is the foodies equivalent of Chinese torture.

While flipping through cookbooks trying to find spring roll recipes to bring in the Year of the Rabbit I stumbled upon a Donna Hay spring magazine that Hen bought me during our last trip down under. Donna Hay is the Aussie Jamie Oliver but a girl. I really like her books and although her whole vibe is a bit Martha, the recipes are simple and delicious. Two things that I wholeheartedly support. This week I asked my sister to stockpile me the magazines so I can take an empty suitcase next time I visit, her reaction 'Oh god, not Donna Hay - she's everywhere Em.' Donna Hay = not cool enough for Bondi.

Anyway within the (very glossy) pages there it was, a new Emma and Bo meal. Pizza! It's fun to make, he can have ham, I can have courgettes, its yummy - score!

Pizza

A note on cups, do not shun their crazy American ways - embrace them. Go forth to the nearest pound shop and make your life a little bit easier.  Also another note on tomatoes, in December we went to the Foodies festival where we watched the wonderful Mary Contini from Valvona and Crolla who made the most delicious tomato sauce with the barest of ingredients.  The key, according to Mary, was the quality of the tinned tomatoes so no more skimping in this house.  Mary was mad by the way, but nice mad.

Makes about 4 pizzas


Basic pizza dough
1 tbsp dry yeast
1 tsp caster sugar
1 cup (250ml) lukewarm water
3 1/2 cups (525g) 00 flour - plus extra for dusting
1 tsp sea salt flakes
1 tbsp olive oil

Tomato Sauce
1 tin of good quality tinned plum tomatoes
2 large cloves of garlic, sliced thinly
oregano - fresh if you have it but dried is fine
a good pinch of chilli flakes
extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

fresh mozzarella
a selection of toppings

Firstly crank up the oven as high as it will go, the higher the heat the crispier the pizza.  Place a large baking tray (or even better a pizza stone) in the oven so the heat will transfer to the base of your pizza.

Begin with the sauce, heat a good glug of the olive oil in a heavy bottomed pan and add the garlic and chilli.  Squish the whole tin of plum tomatoes into the pan, fill the empty tin with water and add this too.  Leave the smaller leaves of the oregano whole and roughly chop the rest, add this to the pan.  Turn the heat down to the lowest setting, cover and leave to simmer until needed.  Occasionally use the back of a wooden spoon to mash down the tomatoes and add a little water if its looking too dry.

For the dough, place the yeast, sugar and water in a bowl and mix to combine. Set aside in a warm place (beside the kitchen radiator is a good place) for 5 minutes or until bubbles appear on the surface.  Bubbles mean that the yeast has been activated.

Place the flour, salt and olive oil in a bowl and make a well in the centre.  Add the yeast mixture and mix together with your hands until you have a well formed dough.  We found the DH's dough recipe far too wet (in Bo's words 'it's gone all Sloppy Giuseppe') so we added at least another cup of flour.  Add more if you need it.  The dough should be easy to handle and not stick to your hands.  Flour a work surface and kneed the dough until elastic and stretchy.  Divide it into equal balls depending on how many pizzas you are making.  Place on a floured tray and cover with a clean, damp cloth.  Set aside in a warm place for 30 minutes or until they have doubled in size.

Once the dough has risen take the sauce of the heat and check it for seasoning.  Get your toppings and mozzarella ready at hand  Press each dough ball into a round and roll out on a floured surface to the desired size and thickness.  Stretching by hand is easy too.  Thin is good!

Now here you have to work quickly, carefully take the heated tray or stone out from the oven (if you are using a baking tray it is advisable to lightly oil it). Place your rolled out dough onto the tray, take a spoonful of the tomato sauce and smear it over the top, add your topping and scatter over nuggets of the mozzarella.



It needed a little more cheese but otherwise it was perfect.

Place back into the oven and cook for 5-10 minutes.  The cooking time may vary depending on how hot your oven can get.  Keep an eye on it and remove when the base is golden and the mozzarella is melted.

Toppings

artichokes, egg, olives and mozzarella

courgette ribbons, chilli, lemon zest and goats cheese

rosemary, garlic, potato and pecorino

prosciutto, rocket and mozzarella

field mushrooms, thyme and mascarpone

chargrilled aubergine, roast peppers, courgettes and mozzarella

Happy Valentines Day

Hello Springtime!

Poached Rhubarb

200g rhubarb (about 2 stalks)
juice and zest of half an orange
1/2 vanilla pod, seeds removed (or 1/2 tsp of vanilla extract)
25g soft brown sugar
25g caster sugar

Heat the oven to 300F/150c/Gas 2.

Cut the rhubarb into 1 inch/2.5cm pieces and lay in a thick ovenproof dish, make sure you choose a dish that will tightly pack the rhubarb in a single layer.

Sprinkle both sugars over the rhubarb.  Mix the orange zest, orange juice and either vanilla seeds or vanilla extract.  Pour over the sugared rhubarb, adding the leftover vanilla pod if used.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 20-25 minutes until soft to touch - remember that it will cook further when cooling.  Turn the rhubarb and leave to cool.  Will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.


Will go perfectly with rice pudding, ice cream, shortbread and cream, pancakes... but this morning it goes perfectly with granola and greek yogurt.

The Ultimate Spaghetti Bolognese

For someone that handed round homemade chutney for presents I was utterly spoilt this Christmas.  Along with beautiful 'Ruby' the sewing machine from Henny and Dad; a whole set of Jamie Oliver's blue fluted crockery from Angie, Ronnie and Clare; my dream orange Le Crueset from Bo (which made me cry); a years subscription to Jamie mag from Boy Wonder,  my dearest friend Fraser treated me with a brand spanking shiny new Jamie Oliver pasta machine.  I am currently Jamie Oliver'd out my nut. 

Fraser's presents from me consisted of a 'Pump n' Go' Yankee Candle for his car (which in my defence is funny and he loved it being a full on Yankee Candle fanatic) and the age old go-to present for any male in your life - the Top Gear calender.  Guilt is clutching at my soul. 

I have owned a pasta machine before and around 4 years ago experimented with ravioli fillings for days. Where the fillings were delish unfortunately the pasta itself was like thick cardboard, but I guess thats what you get for buying a pasta machine for £5.99 from Argos.  Since then it has done nothing but sit on the graveyard shelf along with the steamer and the emergency crockery.  For anyone that its acquainted with pasta machines you will know that after the dough is made it must be passed through the rollers that are set at different widths.  The pasta begins on 7 (the widest setting on my machines) and rolled through each stage until it gets to 1 (the narrowest).  My old pasta machine's number 1 setting was as thick as my number 7 on my brand spanking new one, hence the cardboard pasta. 

Making fresh pasta it definitely a social activity and to celebrate the unveiling a party had to be held.  Slow cooked Bolognese made in my Le Crueset was promised in exchange for garlic bread, vino and helping hands.  I might have omitted the do-it-yourself part.  Before everyone arrived the Bolognese (just like mama used to make, or actually just me) was put together, set simmering on the hob and Head Chef Bo worked on the dough.

Fresh Pasta Dough

Based on Jamie Oliver's recipe. Obviously.

Serves 6


600g/ 1lb Tipo '00' flour (plus extra for dusting)
6 eggs

Pile the flour on to a clean, large, work surface.  If you want to be a little tidier you can use a board or a bowl instead.  Make a well in the centre that will be large enough to fit in all the eggs.  Crack all the eggs into the well and lightly beat them with a fork.*  Incorporate the flour into the egg mixture with the tips of your fingers, a little at a time, until everything is combined.  Work the dough together so it comes together in a ball.

Now the dough needs to be kneeded and given a bit of love to stretch the gluten.  We highly recommend listening to random jazz as it seems to be perfect kneeding music and really gives you the strength to work that dough.  When it turns from rough and floury to smooth and silky (and can be stretched easily without breaking) your pasta dough is ready.  Cover the whole ball tightly with clingfilm and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes.

*At this stage I was recruited to be Dam Woman, making sure that no pesky eggs escaped their doom.  It is handy to have a Commis and I told you that pasta making was social!

Cutting the dough

Now I'm not saying that you need 5 people to make pasta but the majority of us were fresh pasta rookies so more hands etc etc.  Or was it too many cooks?  I'll let you be the judge of that.

We used Jamie's trusty method which you can find here and it worked a treat,  the first time was a little sketchy but by the last piece we were like a troop of Italian mamas! Our top tips would be to make sure that you have the worktop space, to make sure that you have a bag of Tipo '00' flour at hand and to not be afraid to cut the dough if it gets too long.  All agreed that the pasta was a little too thin for fettuccine and it needed to be a bit more robust to cope with the hearty-ness of our bolognese.  Perfect for ravioli though, so stay tuned!





Starring...

Bo - Feeder, Catcher and Handle Cranker

Gillian - Machine Stabiliser and Bo's Right-Hand Girl

Emma - 2nd Catcher, Official Photographer and Question Asker

Stevie - Jamie Oliver Book Reader and Tagliatelle Untangler

Ailsa - Pasta Machine Instruction Reader and Tagliatelle Store Manager

Set: The Smallest Kitchen in the World

Gillian and Bo hard at work

My skills were put to good use



Stevie looking after the precious fettuccine

Yum!

Bolognese

Serves 6

1 medium onion, finely diced

1 medium carrot, finely diced

2 sticks of celery, finely diced

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 kg good quality beef mince

1 heaped tbsp tomato puree

1 small glass red wine

1 tsp dried chilli

jar of pasata

250ml of chicken or beef stock

pinch of sugar

1 tbsp of milk

salt and pepper

Put a large, thick bottomed pan on the a medium setting and sweat the onion, carrot, celery and garlic for 5-10 minutes until translucent.  Add the chilli, turn up the heat and add the beef.  Cook in batches if you have a small pan so the meat doesn't go grey but instead browns nicely.  Use a wooden spoon to break up the beef and once cooked pour in the wine and cook until reduced by half.  Turn the heat down, stir in the tomato puree, pasata and stock.

Place a bay leaf in the pot, place the lid on and turn the heat down to low.  Cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Lift the lid, add the sugar, milk (to cut the acidity of the tomatoes - a good but weird tip!) and season to taste.

Replace the lid and cook for a further 45 minutes.

How about them apples?

I have been baking more and more lately - mainly because my attempts are no longer total disasters.  I know I bang on about purchases changing my life a fair bit but, after buying a oven thermometer, I discovered that my oven had been running 25c hotter than the thermostat.  Now, like magic (or just actual science), perfectly formed and very delicious cakes.  Seriously getting very grand illusions of opening a bakery, even though my cake successes are not even in double figures.  I like to dream big.

As previously noted life has been rather hectic recently and time at home has been limited.  Baking slows everything down, gives you space to think and to concentrate on the simple things.  Like creaming the butter and sugar to pale softness and sieving the flour until it falls like snow.  And then there is there is the fruits of your labour...
 

Spiced Apple Muffins

These muffins are a celebration of the British apple.  Shopping last week I was slightly shocked to see that 90% of the apples on sale were from France or Spain.  Ironic considering the glut we have in this country at this time of year.  If you make this recipe (I hope you do because it is lovely) and don't use British apples I may no longer be your friend.


The apples pack in the moisture and the result is fragrant, delicately spiced and very very moreish.  Great for breakfast or with a cup of tea on a stormy Autumn afternoon.

100g (4oz) light brown muscavado sugar
60g (2oz) soft unsalted butter
225ml (8 fl oz) semi-skimmed milk
255g (9oz) plain flour
3 tsp of baking powder
sultanas, a small handful
walnuts, a small handful
apples, quartered and cored
1/2 tsp of ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp of ground allspice
pinch of salt

Sieve the flour, salt and baking power into a large bowl.  In a second large bowl cream the softened butter and sugar, by hand or by electric mixer - the important thing is that it pales to a light toffee colour.  Fold in the flour mixture into the butter mixture alternatively with the milk until smooth.

Now you have the basic muffin batter you can add the flavour.  Grate in the apples, skin and all, throw in the sultanas, walnuts and all the spices.  Fold together until combined.

Spoon into muffin cases set in a muffin tray and bake for 20 - 25 minutes.  Easy!

I also want to show off my beautiful new crockery that Bo and Angie surprise me with; how lucky am I!  The range is called Blue Fluted by Jamie Oliver and is pretty extensive so that's my Christmases and birthday's sorted for a while.  I love the pretty vintage look and am seriously coveting the oval platters.  Its so lovely having proper grown up crockery and horrible leftovers from our student days. 

Will work for soup

I've been working rather a lot lately, its not made me very fun to be around.  Unless I'm in a slightly hysterical over-tired phase, then my jokes are excellent.  The down side to all this is that I'm living off cereal and tea, not much chance to tingle my taste buds and report back to you.  The upside to my heavy work schedule is that I've been making a hell of a lot of soup.  Now the temperature has plummeted (apparently its going to snow next Tuesday according to Mrs C from number 25) were are getting through 3 huge pots everyday.  When lunch service has been hectic there is something quite calming about pottering around the kitchen concocting delicious soups.

The Soup Dragon

This soup I made today and has a special place in my heart.  And my tummy. 

Roast Butternut Squash Soup

This recipe is adapted from both Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and my darling Sous Chef Nayana (who told me about the parmesan secret).  Hugh F-W notes that this soup could be made from roast chicken leftovers (stock, roasted onions and squash).  A great idea and carbon foot friendly too.

I've been mucking about with butternut squash soup for years, adding chilli for a spicy kick, dropping in cumin for earthy flavours - even melting through coconut milk for that taste of Asia.  This soup is different because it really lets the vegetable live up to its name - buttery and nutty with a savory kick from the parmesan.  Stripped back and pared down, this soup makes you happy.

2 medium to large butternut squash

2 white onions

5 cloves of garlic

2 sticks of celery - roughly chopped (optional)

1 large potato, peeled
chicken stock
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dried thyme
double cream
small knob of butter
1 tbsp of grated parmesan
fresh nutmeg (optional)
salt and pepper


Preheat the oven to 180c/350F/gas 4.

Cut the squashes in half, scoop out the seeds and cut each half into four or five large chunks.  Peel and quarter the onions leaving the roots intact to they hold together while roasting. Place everything into a large roasting tray adding the garlic whole (and not peeled) so they are like soft garliky caramel.  Drizzle olive oil over the whole tray and season with salt, pepper and the dried herbs.  Place in the middle of the oven and roast for around 45 minutes until the squash and onions are soft and golden.  Take out the oven and once cool enough squeeze the garlic out of their papery skins.


Put a large pot on the stove and set on a medium heat, add the butter and when melted add the celery.  Tip the whole roasting tray into the pot and mix around with celery and butter.  Chop the potato into 6 and add to the pot along with enough chicken stock to cover the vegetables.  Simmer on a medium heat with the lid on for half and hour.  Check that the potatoes are cooked through and add a splash of double cream.  Take off the heat and blend until really smooth, take your time - this soup has to be silky.  Sprinkle in the parmesan, blend some more and taste before seasoning.  Nutmeg is delicious with squash so a modest grating is a lovely addition.

Now back to work...

Of mists and mellow fruitfulness

The only season that, last year, made me feel glad to be home after spending 2 weeks lying on Bondi Beach. The only season that allows me to dress up as a pirate, make lots of pumpkin soup and wake up happy every morning. The only season that is never a disappointment because it’s supposed to rain every day.

Autumn – I adore you.

October is the king of months for many reasons but mostly for the food. It seems that all my favorites are in season at this time of year. From mushrooms to beetroot to squash to apples; you can get a damn fine meal in October. I'm also still getting late season tomatoes coming through in my balcony boxes, 1-0 Mr Blackbird! With the nights drawing in comfort food is on the menu.

I’m never going to be a no carb, light bite kind of girl – I like bowls of food that warm your cockles, whatever cockles may be. For comfort bowl food you can’t go far wrong with gnocchi, and I’ve eaten a lot of gnocchi in my time. The first taste was a stolen forkful from my aunt Dianne’s plate whilst eating out in Sydney over a decade ago. Nestled in a simple Neapolitan sauce it was worth the thievery. That trip was a lot of first tastes but the pillowy softness of that rustled potato dumpling was something that I knew I couldn’t (and wouldn’t) live without.

Despite eating a lot of gnocchi, I have never actually made it myself – something to do with not owning a potato ricer. A couple of weeks ago I made that purchase and it changed my life. Not actually, but it’s the simple things. So I read up on my favourite little dumplings, the Romans like to use semolina flour whereas the Tuscans favour ricotta, there is pumpkin gnocchi (Autumnal heaven!), basil gnocchi; the list is endless and delicious. For something relatively simple gnocchi sure does come in a lot of guises. I have a potato ricer and I like potatoes so the classic potato gnocchi it was.

Potato Gnocchi with Chestnut Mushrooms,

Goats Cheese and Pinenuts

A celebration of Autumnal ingredients this dish is perfect for a cozy supper.  You can bake the potatoes in advance to cut down the prep time.  I tried to track down some local, wild mushrooms for this dish but unfortunately our brilliant local grocer has had to close its doors.  Sad times but chestnut are a good substitute.

Serves 2


For the gnocchi:
4 medium potatoes
2 tbsp of 00 flour
1 egg
fresh nutmeg
salt and pepper


For the sauce:
8 large chestnut mushrooms
2 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped
a selection of fresh herbs - I used thyme, purple sage and parsley
splash of white wine
splash of chicken stock
small knob of butter
soft goats cheese
small handful of pinenuts

Turn the oven on to 220c/425F/gas 7.  Rub the potatoes with olive oil, score the tops and bake in the oven for about an hour until the potatoes are fluffy on the inside and crispy on the outside.  Allow to cool a little and then, while they are still warm, cut in half and scoop out the insides into a ricer.  'Rice' (is that a word?!) the potatoes into a large mixing bowl until lovely and smooth.  Add generous pinch of salt, grind in some black pepper and grate in a little fresh nutmeg.  Remember with nutmeg a little goes a long way.  Whisk the egg and add into the potato mixture.   Little by little add the flour, only using enough to bind the mixture.  The less flour used, the lighter your gnocchi will be so only use as much as you need to make the dough easy to handle.  Split the dough three ways and roll each piece into a long sausage shape.  Cut the sausages into inch long pieces, place on a floured plate and leave to set in the fridge for 10 to 20 minutes.

Put a saucepan of salted water on to boil.  Get a large frying on the heat and toss in the pinenuts.  Toast them for half a minute and put to the side.  In the same pan add a good glug of olive oil, add the mushrooms to the frying pan and toss until golden brown.  Add in the butter, garlic, seasoning and any hardy herbs (thyme, sage etc).  When the garlic has cooked, splash in the wine, add the stock and cook for another 5 minutes on a medium heat.  While the sauce is cooking take the gnocchi from the fridge and cook in the salted water until they rise to the surface.  It should only take a couple of minutes.  Remove, gently, with a slotted spoon and add to the sauce.  Sprinkle roughly chopped fresh parsley and the toasted pine nuts into the pan, shake everything together and spoon into pasta bowls.  Crumble a little soft goats cheese over the top and serve.

Note: I have read that gnocchi can be made without using a potato ricer although it is very important to get the mash as smooth as possible.  I picked up my ricer for under a tenner at Tescos.

The herbs I used in this recipe were from our brand-spanking-new community herb garden that I stumbled upon while picking up the papers last week.  Perfect timing as my own herb pots and boxes are past their best now.  They seem to be very well looked after (particularly the purple sage which is bursting with health) and I hope it is treasured by everyone.  A lovely idea for gardenless people like myself.







This post has been entered into the 'In The Bag' food blogging event where 3 seasonal ingredients are brought together to make something delicious and then blogged about.  This month it was mushrooms, nuts and herbs.  To find out more about 'In The Bag' check out Julia's blog A Slice Of Cherry Pie. 

Julia Parsons is the founder of the UK Food Bloggers Association which is a brilliant way to get to know other food bloggers as well as an invaluable source of help and support.